Monday, December 14, 2009

Khanum Hajj Khalili

Today's blog is dedicated to this special woman. Khanum Hajj Khalili is the head of the dormitories (khaabghah in Farsi) of the university where I go to school.

She's an amazing woman. She manages to look after her husband, 2 kids, house, manage the dormitories (800 girls when its at full capacity), do her MA and stay sane! She was in my English class last year and always did her homework, even with her full workload - something the other students couldn't manage. Ok, so I was a bit apprehensive about having her in the class at first, with her being a manager and all (and me not exactly being the model Qum Girl) but actually she was kinda cool. And she always knew the latest developments at the school!

Khanum Hajj Khalili always baked cakes for our class 'parties' i.e. the lessons where we used to eat junk food and play games to practise speaking English. (Yes, I got paid to play 20 questions and miming games last year!)

I will always remember the day when she pulled out the Eid card I had sent to her in 2004 - the year we spent 2 months in the dorms learning Farsi. She kept this card for 5 years! She made my day when she pulled out the card from her handbag - it was such a small gesture on my part, but meant so much to her that I had remembered her once my trip to Iran was over.

My other Khanum Hajj Khalili memory is the day when she asked me if I get tired studying in the mornings and then coming back to teach in the afternoons. I replied that I look to her for inspiration on that! She has accomplished more in her life that most people only dream of.

I dedicate my blog to this amazing woman. This amazing woman needs our prayers right now. She's in a semi-coma in ICU with advanced cancer. We pray that all those who've had the pleasure of knowing her to continue this relationship and those who have yet to embark on the journey of knowledge in Qum have the pleasure and honour of forging a relationship with this wonderful woman. God Willing.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Adhan

You can hear the call to prayer (Adhan) nearly everywhere in Qum. We're lucky. We have 2 mosques in our neighbourhood which both play the adhan from their loud speakers. It starts of with a recitation of a few verses from the Qur'an, followed by the 'synchronised singers' and then the call to prayer starts.

There's not really synchronised singers! I just like to call them that. They kinda go like this - "SubhaaaaanAllah, SubhaaaaaaaaaanAllllllllaaaaaah, SubhanAllaaaaaaaaaaah". There's a few of them singing it together and it lasts about 30 secs. Its really cute. And I'm really going to miss it when we leave! Maybe I should record it on my phone.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Eid e Ghadeer

Eid e Ghadeer is the anniversary of the appointment of the successor to the Holy Prophet. It happened on the way back from the Holy Prophet's last pilgrimage to Makkah before he died.

As is the tradition at school, we had a 'jashn' (celebration gathering) to mark this. Now I don't really want to get into the usual sunni-shia arguments that usually happen around this time of year, so any comments posted on the blog along these lines will be deleted. During the celebration, I noticed that all the girls just went crazy shouting out Imam Ali's name and cheering and it made me reflect a little about how things are 'back home' in the West.

Don't get me wrong, I loved living in London. But when we have celebrations and commemorations of Islamic significance, it makes me appreciate living here in Qum a little more. And this is something I'm really going to miss when we move back to London (or Toronto depending on whether The Husband or I get their way!). Every happy or sad occaison is marked with coloured or black flags in the streets. And happy occaisons find the streets of Qum decorated with lights.

The thing which really made me ponder was hearing my fellow students cheer for Imam Ali with such enthusiasm. Muslim children back home rarely have such enthusiasm for our Islamic Heros. They would most likely be found cheering for football teams, X-factor or the latest Big Brother wannabe. Maybe we've forgotten who the real stars are... the ones that will help us achieve eternal success. The role models we should be following... not the ones who encourage us to be the next talentless reality show moron.

It made me wonder where we've gone wrong? Have we moved to the West to make better lives for ourselves and children and in the process forgotton our basic values and principles? I was ashamed to see the state of our community on my last visit back home. Many of the kids/teenagers had no sense of what was haram and halal.

Anyway, thats today's rant over with... now lets get back to celebrating Eid! The tradition is that Sayyids - decendants of the Holy Prophet and Imams - give presents to non-sayyids. So email me at qum_girl @ hotmail . com and I'll send you my address to post my pressie to!

Sunday, November 29, 2009

My faith in Qummies is restored! (well, sort off)

I feel a little guilty about my last rant re: smelly taxi drivers. While it's true that a lot of them smell and/or try and rip you off when they see you're a foreigner, you do get the odd gem.

Like last night. One of the '133' drivers (one of the bigger taxi companies in Qum) dropped us off at someone's house. Not even 2 mins later, the guy drove back to the house and handed me my mobile phone. I didn't even realise I'd left it behind! And to top it off, its a brand new nokia E71!

So I felt really guilty cos I previously slagged off taxi drivers and came home and immeadiately changed my facebook status in the taxi driver's honour.

But one day later, as I sit and ponder on what happened (yes, I'm really that sad) I realise that actually, I gave the driver my phone to speak to the family whose house we had been invited to, to check we were in the right place. And HE forgot to give the phone back to me! And I forgot to ask for it back. So technically I didn't leave the phone in his car, he held onto it and drove off, but realised his mistake and came back. So its a little from column A and a little from column B.

And I'm changing my FB status!

Friday, November 27, 2009

Eid Mubarak


I hope you all have a fabulous Eid, with duas Qum Girl and The Husband

Monday, November 23, 2009

Smug people

I really hate smug people.

You don't get a lot of the convenience food in Qum that we're used to back home. There is no concept of sticking something in the micro and 5 mins later having a meal in front of you. Most things have to be made from scratch. (perhaps that's why most people loose weight here - because they can't be bothered to prepare meals/snacks themselves).

So when a new product comes out in the shops, I get really excited. The latest additions to the grocery list include frozen chips and frozen veggies! (We get the tinned ones here already, but I think they look very anaemic - esp the peas).

I once made the mistake of telling one such smug person that I found frozen chips in the grocery store. She spent the next half hour explaining to me the benefits of the homemade variety, how its better to do it yourself, how her husband doesn't like anything that isn't homemade, how eating chips doesn't fill you up. Jeez, I wish I'd kept my mouth shut. In reply to said smug person, I'd just like to say:

1. I'm not a stepford housewife. I'd rather go out and see the world and have fun rather than be chained to the kitchen peeling potatoes.
2. Train your husband better - a time will come when he will have to eat leftovers/freezer food etc. Or better still, teach him how to cook!
3. If such convenience food exists in Qum, make the most of it! After all, the mullas will be buying and eating it too, so who are we to deny ourselves such things! :-)

The other variety of smug people are the ones that withold information from others. What's the problem with telling people where you got something from or which classes/programmes are taking place. Share information people! It can be very frustrating for new people to find their feet in a new place with such barriers put in front of them.

That's my whinge for today.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Police line: Do not cross!

You know that yellow tape that the police put across crime scenes to stop people wandering in a contaminating evidence at a crime scene? I saw a refreshing alternative the other day. It was a green tape which said: "Grass and flower seeds planted. Do not enter".

How cute!

Smelly People

I wish people would learn to wash. Its no good covering your sweaty, gross. 'I haven't showered in 3 days' body odour smell with nasty Iranian rose water perfume Mr Taxi Driver. It makes your passengers want to throw up in your equally dirty taxi.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Gym Class

I've now had a couple of gym classes. They are just too, too funny. I wanted to share a couple of observations with you. Although to get the full benefit of the experience, you need to be in the class, but I'll try my bestest. But first maybe a warning. If you're in love with Jamia, Iran or lack a sense of humour, you might want to navigate away from this post!

1. No matter how much the teacher insists that there are no men in the gym, some of the girls refuse to take their scarves off during gym class.

2. Same about gym clothes. Girls trying to exercise in shalwar kameezes, jeans, 'school shoes' and a variety of other non-practical clothes is indeed a sight to be seen.

3. You know those funny soldier marches that you see on the news in 3rd world countries where they walk and kick their legs up to hip-height - they learn them in gym class. And yes, we did them last week and no, I can't bring my legs upto hip-height.

4. Sport bras don't exist in this country. Or in any of the countries where the students in my class come from. I'll leave the mental picture up to you. Future potential business idea?! Import sports bras from Primark and sell them here.

5. People who have bad backs, knees etc. are not exempt from class. The teacher takes these people to one side and makes them do stretches! I've learnt that its better to do as much as you can in class rather than make up some ailment. The only thing that gets you out of class is getting pregnant.

6. Pace yourselves people! My classmates have yet to learn that if they run fast, or are really energetic in the first hour of class, there is no energy left for the 2nd hour.

7. They have some really strange exercises in this country. For example, lieing on the floor, bringing your knees up to your chest and rocking on your back is supposed to help strengthen your back?! Makes mine hurt more)

8. We have this sequence of star jumps and arm/leg movements that we are going to be tested on?! We're supposed to practise them at home. The second part of our exam is an obstacle course. My PE grades sucked at school. Hope these ones don't bring my grades down too :-(

9. I thought I was unco-ordinated. You should see some of the other students in the class. Picture Mr Bean (or Mr Blooby) with a long pole trying to kick his foot up in the air upto hip-height and walk 3 steps forward and back in synch with the teacher. That's what last week's class was like!

10. Our teacher is stick thin. My classmates ask her for dietry advice! Maybe there is something in her exercises!

Afternoon Siestas

Afternoon naps are a national institution here. One would never dream of calling an Iranian between 1 and 5pm. Most shops are closed between these times too, which kinda makes it hard if one runs out of ingrediants while cooking lunch. (yes, for those of you that know me you'll be glad to know that I'm finally getting the hang of the cooking thing!!)

I haven't quite got the hang of the afternoon nap. It sounds great in theory. 40 winks after lunch to help you get through the rest of the day. The trick is to time it. The nap should be exactly an hour. Any more than that, just makes you feel more tired.

I love my sleep. I could sleep all day - just give me a duvet and a dark room. But this afternoon nap thing is beyond me. I ALWAYS over sleep and then it takes me the rest of the evening to 're-wake-up'.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Khaste na Basheed!

Iranians use a lot of Taarof.

For example, when you're in a shop and want to pay the shop keeper, he'll say "Qaabil nadare" which means "it's no big deal" i.e. don't pay me. But the customer insists. Shopkeeper and customer keep playing this game of taroof until the shop keeper relents and tells you the price. Once a taxi driver said "Qaabil nadare" to The Husband. So he left without paying. Of course taroof is false. Obviously someone will want paying after delivering goods or services. The taxi driver ran after him and claimed the money.

Another example of taarof is when a random stranger invites you to their house. It's not a real invitation. Or better still when you go to someone's house and you're standing at their door and they say "Befarmayeed" (please come in). But rather than open the door and let you in, they close the door on your face!

One of my favourites is "Daste shoma dard na kone" Which little means "may your hands not hurt". This is what you say to someone who gives you something or opens a door for you or passes you a pencil. The reply to this is "sare shoma dard na kone" which literally means "may your head not hurt" (i.e. think nothing of it)

The other phrase you use for someone who's working is "Khaste na basheed" or "don't be tired". You generally say this to the teacher at the end of each class.

We had our first gym class today. Our teacher put us through the ringer. We started of running around the hall about 50 times, then a variety of stretches/star jump-type things etc, followed by a mini-assult course and stretches to finish off. We were all SHATTERED and had aches and pains in muscles we didn't know existed. At the end of the class, she tells us "khaste na basheed"! Excuse me, if you don't want us to be tired, don't make us do so much!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

School Update

I've been back at school for 2 weeks now. That's excluding the classes I've bunked!

This term, I'm studying Ahkam (Islamic Jurisprudence), Aqaid (Beliefs) and Tarbiyat e Badani (Gym class). It's a light work load, which is great as I'm hoping to make the most out of the swimming pool this term.

I went to the big library today in one of my free periods. The place was heaving and I had to sit on the floor and try and study! They've also changed the rules a bit. You have to leave your bag outside the library (so stop people sneaking out books perhaps?). There are some lockers, but unluckily they were all taken. My brand new designer (non-fake) school bag had to be left outside on the floor :-(

Noisy Neighbours

I think some new people have moved into our neighbourhood. The father is REALLY loud. We can hear everything he says when he's out in his yard (which seems to be most of the time!) and what's worse is that he has a really annoying laugh.

Actually, I lie. The worse thing is that his little son has inherited his loudness.

There go my friday lie-ins!

Friday, October 23, 2009

Lady Masuma Qum part 2

When this year's batch of summer camp kids were here, we were lucky enough to visit the International Relations Office situated within the shrine. If you ever visit Qum, its worth going to the office (Its found in Sahn e Ateeq - the old courtyard, and its open until 2pm every day). They give out books in English about the shrine. The books aren't written in the best English, but they are useful in pointing out the main sites within the shrine.

Anyways, the man in charge of the office (Agha Nazeri) gave us an insight into the life of this lady, who, if we're really honest, we only remember on her death anniversary and barely know anything about.

She's refered to in history as "Zainab e Dowvom" or the Second Zainab. We hear that she was very attached to her brother and when he moved to Iran, she missed him a lot and decided to move closer to him. What Agha Nazeri told us was that this was partly true. Some historians also narate that the 8th Holy Imam asked her to head towards Iran after his departure and use the cover of 'missing her brother' as a cover for the journey. On the way from Madinah (Saudi Arabia) to Iran, she (along with her brothers and nephews that were accompanying her on this journey) stopped and she gave speeches. Her aim was to educated the people about the unjust ruler - Mamun Rashid. In the same way that Lady Zainab spoke against the tyrant Yazid after the massacre of her family members in Karbala, Lady Masuma did the same.

Her words were starting to enlighten people about the unjustices of their ruler and when Mamun Rashid caught wind of this and sent his soldiers to kill Lady Masuma and her brothers. They were stopped in a town near Qum called Saveh. Lady Masuma was poisoned, and taken to Qum, where she died a short while later.

Agha Nazeri went on to explain that hundreds of books have been written about the position of women in Islam, but if you want to see the real position of women in Islam, come to Qum and just look at the area around the grave of Lady Masuma. You will see high ranking scholars, government ministers etc all come to her grave and kneel before Lady Masuma.

Personally (and I'm sure that all the students who live here will agree with me) I find that every time I'm stressed or having problems with my studies, I go to her shrine and tell Lady Masuma what's bothering me. I find that sooner or later my issues all go away.

Lady Masuma Qum

I promised a while back that I'd write a little about Lady Masuma Qum - the sister of the 8th Leader of the Shia Muslims who's buried here in Qum. This week was her birthday anniversary, so the shrine was filled with fresh flowers and lit up with lots of lights!

Here's a little bit about her:

Lady Fatima Masuma (A), born on 1st Zilqaad 173AH, was the daughter of the 7th Imam, Imam Mūsā al-Kāđim (A) and the sister of the 8th Imam, Imam Ali al-Ridā (A). She was a noble lady who dedicated her life to Islam and Allah. She was highly gifted and due to the training of her father and brother, she has achieved a high reputation in history for her knowledge and piety. She was only six years old when her father was arrested by Hārūn (the 6th Abbasid Caliph) and thereafter, she was brought up under the care of her brother, Imam al-Ridā (A) for twenty-one years.

In the year 200 A.H, Ma’mūn (the 7th Abbasid Caliph) forced the Imam (A) to move from Madina to Khurāsān, in Iran. And so, Lady Fatima Masuma (A) was once more separated from her guardian. In the year 201 A.H, she decided to leave Madina and travel to Khurāsān to be at the side of her brother, intending to help him in his mission to preach Islam. But regrettably, she never reached him. The caravan that she was travelling with, was ambushed at Sāweh, where she had to witness the brutal killing of her close family members. As a result, she can be compared to Lady Zaynab (A), who suffered a similar plight in Karbalā.
Lady Fatima Masuma (A) was taken ill at Sāweh. From here, the Shi`a of the nearby Qum brought her to their city, where she spent her last few days, before passing away. Lady Fatima Masuma (A) is buried in Qum, Iran. Due to her blessed presence and patronage, the city has grown into a centre of Shi`a learning; a destination for thousands of Muslim students from over 80 countries.

Life in Qum largely revolves around the Haram of Lady Fatima Masuma (A), which is the focal point of this holy city. Every year hundreds of thousands of pilgrims come from all over the world to pay homage to this noble lady. They come to pay their respect to Lady Fatima Masuma (A) in accordance to the reliable traditions of three Holy Imams (A) which are quoted below:
From the 6th Imam, Imam Ja`far al-Şādiq (A):
تُقبَض فيها امْراةٌ منْ وُلْدى، اِسْمُها فاطِمَةُ بِنْتُ مُوسى، وتَدْخُلُ بِشَفاعَتِها شيعَتي الجنّة بَأجْمَعِهِمْ
“A lady from my children whose name will be Fatima, daughter of Mūsā, will die in Qum.
On the day of Judgement this lady will intercede for all my Shi`a to enter Heaven.”[1]
From the 8th Imam, Imam Ali al-Ridā (A):
مَنْ زارَ الْمَعْصومَةَ بِقُمْ كَمَنْ زارَني
“Whoever visits Masuma in Qum is like the one who has visited me.”[2]
From the 9th Imam, Imam Muhammad Taqī al-Jawād (A):
مَنْ زارَ عَمَّتي بِقُمَّ فَلَهُ الجَنَّةُ
"Whoever visits my aunt in Qum will enter Heaven.”[3]
Notes:
[1] `Allāmah Muhammad Bāqir Majlisī, Bihār al-Anwār, vol. 60, p. 228; Qādī Nūrullāh Shūshtarī, Majālis al-Mu’minīn, vol. 1, p. 83.
[2] Mīrzā Muhammed Taqī Khān Sepehr, Nāsikh al-Tawārikh, vol. 3, p. 68; Shaykh Dhabīhullāh Mahallātī, Rayāhīn al-Sharī`ah, vol. 5, p. 35.
[3] Bihār al-Anwār, vol. 102, p. 265.



That's what we're taught about her in lectures/Sunday school. In my post I'll write a little about what I've learnt about her since I moved here and what she means to me.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Back in Qum

After a busy summer filled with summer camp, going back to the UK, working, catching up with friends and family and spending as much time in Tesco as I can, The Husband and I are now back in Qum.

We've had a wonderful welcome back home - seems like nothing has progressed in the 2 months that I've been away. Facebook, BBC and You Tube are all still blocked. But the icing on the cake is the next door neighbour's building work. It started during the time of my final Farsi exams (February) and it still hasn't finished!! So instead of my 'bunking off school lie-in', I had to listen to drilling all day long. n.b. the bunking off school was justified - (1) I never bunked off school when I was a kid, so I'm making up for it now (2) There was a power cut this morning which meant no water to shower or electricity to make tea.

The cherry on the icing of the cake is that our water pump is broken, which doesn't help the piles of laundry I have to do. Also means that I have to cross my fingers and hope/pray that there is enough water in the tank when I need to flush!

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Eid

Here's an interesting article I was sent about Eid. Some of you will be interested to know that moon-sighting issues aren't restricted to London - we have them in Qum too!

Belated Eid Mubarak - whenever you celebrated the Eid

"But how can we have more than one Eid?"

The answer: why not?!

Instead of making mountains out of molehills, let's try to resolve such issues with a little bit of common sense. If Ramadan ended on Saturday for the parents (i.e. Sunday Eid) and on Sunday for the children (i.e. Monday Eid) and on Monday for the followers of Ayt.. Sistani in Europe (i.e. Tuesday Eid), surely the parents can wait just one or more days to wear their new clothes or cook up all sorts of ethnic delicacies! If the other members of your family are fasting today, and you are not, just drink a glass of water in the morning – you don't have to eat a four-course meal in front of them! In regards to Eid prayers, most places have services to accommodate various situations, and even if your community doesn't, keep in mind that Eid prayers are not obligatory during the occultation of the Twelfth Imam (may Allah hasten his reappearance) and can also be offered individually (Ayatollah Sistani: Islamic Laws, ruling #1525).

Furthermore, even if we see the Arab community celebrating Eid on one day, the Pakistanis the next days, and as usual the Khojas after them, what exactly is the big deal? In many parts of the Muslim world, people celebrate Eid for a whole week. The more, the merrier! I for one fail to see the problem with being able to dress up, visit friends and having delicious meals in the evening for three days instead of just one!

Instead of panicking and rushing to hurl the vilest accusations at our religious scholars, and turning and twisting their research and presentations to suit our needs, let us try to be a bit more reasonable. Unity does not mean uniformity. Instead of becoming upset at such minor differences, let us learn to appreciate and enjoy the blessings of variety and diversity.

Also, we must realize that even if we ignore all jurisprudential differences, we still would not be able to avoid the issue of multiple Eids. Indeed, we see that during the caliphate of Imam Ali (peace be upon him), a man once came and told him that he had sighted the crescent for the month of Shawwal, while no one else had. The Imam told him that since he has sighted the moon himself, it was Eid for him the next day, but for the rest of the community, since there were not two reliable testimonies (as required by Shariah), it would be the 30th of Ramadan. So while it was haram for the man to fast the next day, it was in fact wajib upon everyone else!

Hence, for those who have proper knowledge and understanding of Islamic jurisprudence, this is really a non-issue. In all honesty, the moonsighting drama has nothing to do with unity or keeping our families intact. The Shia world has had multiple Eids for centuries now, so it has hard to fathom why this has become such a divisive issue. The fact of the matter is that this is a simple jurisprudential technicality which certain nefarious elements have hijacked and used to attack our Maraja-e-Taqleed, and many simple-minded Shias are sadly following suit. If we are really so concerned about maintaining unity, let us keep in mind that the one institution that has safeguarded and protected Shi'ism for the past 1200 years and the only platform that is capable of uniting us is the same Marjaiyyat which we so quickly rush to accuse of causing disunity amongst us!

On a final note, History tell us that in the 16th century, as Mongol armies were about to overrun Baghdad, the Muslim world was too busy fighting among itself over apparently a far more pertinent matter: whether it is permissible to consume owl meat or not! While they were busy discussing this issue, Baghdad was captured and run over. Today, as we face enemies and calamities from all sides, let us learn from our own history, let us cease from wasting so much time and energy complaining about such trivial matters, let us unite under the banner of the Marjaiyyat, and let us focus on the greater problems that threaten to overrun our communities and the Muslim Ummah today. Remember the famous statement of Ayt. Khomeini (r.a.) who used to say: Muslim world is fighting whether to keep hands open or closed during prayers, forgetting that enemies are ever ready and waiting for the chance to chop those hands."

It is time to wake up and face up the real danger which is on our doorstep. May Allah swt accept all your Ibadat's of the Holy Month and the special Ibadat of the Eid day - no matter, whenever you celebrated it!

Saturday, July 18, 2009

The fun fair

The Huband and I braved an Iranian funfair yesterday. It wasn't nearly as bad as I was expecting - a typical third world experience!

We had to queue up and buy tickets for each individual ride (and yes, each one was priced differently!), and then queue up for our rides. The first ride was a boat ride - you know the pirate ship type thing that swings. As we got on, the man said something along the lines of "don't be scared". An odd comment to make, I thought, considering that the ride is no different to other pirate ship rides. Once the ride started, I realised what he meant. The first few swings were so squeaky that even a lorry load of WD40 couldn't have fixed it! Once the ride was in full swing, the noise went away (thank God!)

The next ride was similar, except that it swung us 360 degrees as well as swinging from side to side.

The caterpiller ride was the funniest though. We waited in queue and watched the ride in action before going on. The ride had to stop every 3-4 minutes as the women's chadors were flying out of control! As annoying as it was to have the ride stop so often, it was good to see the ride operators taking this seriously, and making people aware that their clothing could get stuck in the machinery.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

The nice people

Ok, I admit my last blog entry was a bit harsh. Sometimes the annoying people annoy me so much that I forget about the good people (happens all the time in every country). Some Iranians will actually go out of their way to help you, like the lamp guy I encountered the other day.

My parents had brought me a desk lamp from the UK. They brought me a lamp that needed a bayonet bulb, but you only get the screw type here. The man was overjoyed at the fact that a lamp from Inglistan (England) had been brought into the shop! He offered to change the fitting and put in an energy saving light bulb. He also changed the plug from a 3 pin to a 2 pin, and made sure that everything was properly secured. He must have worked on the lamp for a good 2 hours and only charged me $4. And, the best part was, he didn't complain but rather relished the challenge.

And while some (or rather most) taxi drivers will try and rip you off, you do get the odd gem who will tell you where the best kebabi in town is, introduce you to the owner and even offer to pick some up when you have a kebab craving!

Monday, July 13, 2009

Is the heat getting to people??

I went to the Monday market today, on the outskirts of Qum. Its a great place for time-pass and buying things at a cheaper rate than the bazaars.

They also sell fruits and vegetables, so I thought I'd stock up. I found a stall with the most loveliest tomatoes and seeing the woman in front of me selecting her own, started picking some out for myself.

The stall holder started shouting at me for touching the tomatoes!! While I pointed out that the woman next to me was choosing her own and that usually stall holders give you the worse fruits (which they do!), he grabbed the 4 tomatoes out of my hand and started filling the rest of the bag himself. When I pointed out that he was giving me the rubbish ones, he started bouncing them on the table to show me they were ok!! Is that some kind of tomatoe test??!! Do the good ones bounce back and the rubbish ones go splat, or something?? If they weren't the nicest tomatoes, I would have told him where to stick them.

Weirdo or what??

As I walked through the rest of the bazaar, I noticed EVERYONE picking their own fruits and vegies. Oh well, only one month till I'm back home and shopping in Tesco again!

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Ice Pack


Ice pack is the name of one of the ice cream milkshake places in Iran. They make yummy shakes, complete with choc sauce, bananas and smarties. Not as nice as Tinseltown ones, but they'll do in the mean time!

I'm spending my last month here going through the menu and trying all of them. (Apart from orange), and from the ticks you can see I have a LOOOOONNNNGGG way to go!




The puzzling thing is that all the Ice Pack literature says "Ice Pack Inglistan", i.e. Ice Pack England, but I've never seen an Ice Pack in England! Wonder if they trade under another name? I guess I have the summer to find out!



Thursday, July 9, 2009

Polution

I love the random public holidays we get in this country. Makes up for having one day weekends.

The other day, (Tuesday I think - without school, the days are all merging into one!) was declared a public holiday in Tehran because of polution!!

It's affected things here in Qum too - school is closed (even the sports centre) and the new funky bread shop in town hasn't had any deliveries (so that makes it a funky breadless bread shop!).

The air in Qum is a little bit dustier than usual I guess, but not reason to close shops and offices!! How am I to survive the next 2 weeks if shops are closed?!

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Eggs

The first time I went grocery shopping by myself, I asked the guy behind the counter for 6 eggs. Makes sense right? Eggs come in packs of 6 or 12. The guy behind the counter looked at me strangely while he packed my 6 eggs. Later I realised that you buy eggs in this country by the kilo! And they don’t come nicely packaged in a tray with a see-through plastic lid. They come in a plastic sandwich bag. Inevitably, some of the eggs get broken on the way home.

When my mum came to visit, she accompanied me on one of the grocery shopping trips. She insisted that the shopkeeper pack the eggs in a tray and cover it with a plastic bag!!

Here’s a picture of yesterday’s kilo of eggs:





...yes, the green thing is what you think. The eggs are completely organic, poo and all!


Sunday, June 28, 2009

Summer...

I came across an email the other day. Not sure how true it is, but it gave me some comfort being here is the boiling sun as my friends all prepare to escape the oven and return home for the holidays.

Basically is said that in temperatures over 40 degrees, you loose 15 calories a minute just in breathing! That's 900 calories an hour, and 21,600 calories a day and 151.200 calories a week. Just for breathing!!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY BLOG!!

My blog was born on June 28th, 2008.


Not one of my mum's cakes.... but it will do for now!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Apologies...

I know my blog entries have been a bit erratic over the last 2-3 months. Please bear with me. I have one exam left, after which I will be more regular in posting.

Meanwhile, please send Islamic History (Especially life of the Holy Prophet) vibes this way!

Swimming in Qum

Summer is finally here! So is exam period, but that's another blog entry!

The school swimming pool has finally opened... I have to say that it has been well worth the wait! And just in time for the boiling weather too! The pool complex is complete with a jacuzzi, children's pool, sauna, steam room and a cold plunge pool. (You're supposed to have a dip in the cold pool after using the jacuzzi to firm up your skin!?)

I was sitting in the jacuzzi today with my back in front of one of the jet streams. One of the ladies told me off (didn't really understand why) and told me to sit with my abdomen against the jet stream instead! My friend and I tried to do this, but found it ergonomically impossible! If anyone knows any sensible reason why its good to have your abdomen blasted with a stream of water, leave a comment!

The entry procedure is a bit like swimming in Mashad (see entry from August 2008). You have to check in your mobile phone and swap your outdoor shoes for a locker key! Before you give your shoes in though, you have to wear a pair of their flip flops. What puzzles me is that there are only 3 available colours - white, red and pink - but it is IMPOSSIBLE to find a pair in the same colour. I think there must be a place where all the left red flips and right pink flops go to hide, because I can NEVER find a pair in the same colour!

We can bring our mothers and daughters with us to swim, so if you're in Qum and old enough to be my mother or young enough to be my daughter, you're welcome to join me!

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Juice cartons

What really frustrates me about this country, more than the crazy driving, the nosy people and the teacher's expectations that you will memorise every word in the book.... all these things do not annoy me as much as juice cartons.

Juice cartons are designed to not pour out the last 30ml of their contents. Its sooooo annoying! I think I will have to resort to cutting the tops off the cartons.

On year on...

Its exactly a year since we got to Iran. I've been thinking a lot over the last few days and at how much has happened in a year!

The first and most important thing is that I've actually finished the Farsi and most of the basic Islamic studies course! Major achievement :-)
Well, assuming of course that I pass my final exams!!

I'm also thankful for all the people that helped me settle in:

* The Husband - for putting up with all my strops when I first moved here!

*All those people who helped us set up our home, take us out shopping and told us where to buy things from and what brands (very important to know what brands to buy here, some cleaning products will actually burn your skin off!)

*All those people who went out of their way to make me feel welcome here

*And I have to thank those people who were mean and unhelpful too, as it taught me very quickly who my friends were.

*All my friends that I left behind, for equipping me with heart-shaped ice trays (essential for the boiling weather!) and suggesting I take a panini grill with me (my most-used appliance!)

*All my family, who telepathically know when I am feeling homesick and call me at those moments!

*And,most importantly, all those people that keep me supplied with English chocolate! I love you guys the most!

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Finally, we have some order!

The concept of queuing is one well known to us Brits – we love them. Very little annoys us more than somebody who jumps to the front of a queue after we’ve been standing patiently in line for our turn, except maybe being called away just as we make it to the front.

Those of you that have been to Iran will know that Iranians do not know how to queue for anything. Paying bills, shopping, entering/leaving the mosque - its the survival of the fittest, or rather the person with the strongest elbows (to elbow everyone else out of the way!)

So over the last few days, I was amazed to see a queue forming outside the school tuck shop.

Today, as I got to the front of the queue, a girl tried to push in front of me. The kiosk lady refused to serve her and made her join the queue!

Finally :-)

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Teacher's Day Part 2

Teacher's Day is turning into Teacher's week! Today we had a little celebration at school. Our teachers were all made to sit at the front and given flowers. One of the teachers did a little speech to explain the significance of the day.

Teacher's day is the 12th of Ordebehest (2nd month of the Iranian Calender). It's also the death anniversary of Murtaza Mutahiri. You can read more about him on wikipeadia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morteza_Motahari

In her speech, the teacher narrated some funny stories from her years as a Farsi teacher. Not sure how they'll translate into English, but here goes:

A student whose Farsi wasn't very good was trying to book a vehicle to transport a large number of people. The man told her that all the autobuses were booked, but he could send her a minibus. So the student replied: "Don't worry, send whatever bus you have" (bus in Farsi means kiss!)

The other story was from a class. The teacher was giving her students Jumle Saazis (a random word that you have to make a sentence from). The first student was given the word 'gul' (flower), so she said: "Shoma gul hasti" which means you are a flower. The teacher was really chuffed by this! The next student was given the word 'meegh', so the Student number 2 said "Shoma meegh hasti" which means you are a nail!! (the type you hammer into the wall, not finger nail!)

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Layla and Majnoon

My Naurooz fish sadly died shortly after they were bought :-( I didn't even get a chance to photograph Majnoon! Contrary to the actual story of Layla and Majnoon (see a previous post), my fish Majnoon died before Layla, but just like in the story, Layla was very sad after his death and shortly after joined her companion in Fish Heaven.

Here is a picture of Layla:



Teacher's Day

They have lots of 'days' in Iran. Thursday was the birth anniversary of Sayyidda Zainab (Granddaughter of the HolyProphet of Islam) and also 'nurse's day' (I wonder if that includes radiographers??!)

Today was teacher's day. This day had been drilled into us during our Farsi days, so I had marked it on my calender and remembered to bring in little gifts for all my teachers! My English students surprised me with the HUGEST gift I have ever seen! Nicely wrapped, with flowers and a box of shireeni! (Sweet cream cakes)

Didn't get a chance to photograph the cakes - we dusted them at school!!

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Layla and Majnoon

Nizami Kunjehei was one of the poets of the late 6th and early 7th century (hijri). He's one of the most famous poets of stories/poems read at parties and gatherings in Iran. He is famous for 5 books:
1. Makhzanul Asrar
2. Khusru and Shireen
3. Layli and Majnoon (they call her Layli in Farsi, Layla in Arabic)
4. Haft Paykar
5. Iskander Nameh (lifestory of Alexander the Great)

Layli and Majnoon is a Romeo and Juliet-type story.

Layli and Majnoon (not his real name, means madman) lived in the same village. They loved each other a lot, but when her father found out, he married her off to someone else in a village far away.

Majnoon was so caught up in the love of Layli and so depressed at her loss, that he used to wander the deserts and mountains. His father, seeing Majnoon's grief, was very upset and tried to research ways of removing Majnoon's grief and freeing him from the 'pain' of the love of Layli.

Majnoon's father tried to advise his son to help him overcome his grief at the loss of Layli, but the fire of the love of Layli was too strong and all the fatherly advise was forgotten.

Majnoon's father sought the counsel of his relatives who advised him to take Majnoon to Makkah and that perhaps the association with Allah will lessen his grief. But when they got to Makkah, all Majnoon prayed for was for Allah to take some years of his life and give them to Layli (i.e. prayed for her long life) and no other prayers!

When the father heard this prayer of Majnoon, he understood that the pain of the love of Layli has no cure.

Basically at the end of the story, Layli dies in childbirth. Majnoon travels to visit her grave and cries so much there that he dies too.

You have no idea how surprised I was to be studying a love story in the religious city of Qum!!

Update...

Sorry guys! Need to get into the habit of blogging a bit more regularly... I have so many pics and anecdotes to post up! Believe me, life in Qum is just as busy as life in London!

Good news is that after 6 months of hard slog, tears and tantrums, I have FINALLY FINISHED FARSI!!!!!!!!! Technically, we didn't finish the second half of the last book (It's all boring poetry that no one understands anyway). Long story, but the summary is that after one finishes Farsi, they move onto the next level - called Tamhidiyya - which is basic Islamic Studies. Anyone who has been through the Madressa (Sunday School) System would whizz through this. The aim is to improve our Farsi, introduce us to religious textbook language and get everyone's basic knowledge upto the same level. After we were due to finish Farsi, there wouldn't have been enough time or teachers to start a new batch of students on the Tamhiddiyya course, so the head of department decided to allow us to wrap up as many exams as we could and join the class that was a week ahead of us! Good news for us!!

My classes still run 6 days a week, 4 hours a day. I'm studying Islamic History (Life of the Holy Prophet), Akhlaq (Manners and etiquettes), Qur'an (How to recite properly) and Raveshe Tahseel (Study skills). The rest of the class is studying Akham (Islamic Laws), which I've dropped this term, due to teaching commitments. (I promised I would study the book myself and sit the exam at a later date)

We're really blessed to have an amazing set of teachers. The Akhlaq teacher used to be a Farsi teacher, so she speaks slowly and the History teacher teaches us in the form of Q&A - the questions being potential exam questions. The Qur'an teacher, on the other hand, is a bit of a dragon. Most of the class skips her lesson. She almost reduced a student to tears today! The class is an easy class and the homework is easy, so I'm staying put for a bit.

The study skills teacher is funny. She's all over the place- practically dancing on the stage in front of us as she teaches! The Iranian method of teaching is to work through the book from beginning to end. This teacher skips from lesson 1 to lesson 10, then goes through lesson 5. After 6 months of the Iranian ways, I'm finding it hard to cope with this kind of randomness!

I thought that after finishing Farsi, I might get a bit of respite/get my social life back. Unfortunately, I'm still having to put in a couple hours for every teaching hour to understand the text books and write up my notes! Whereas Farsi was all about cramming words and phrases, at least this is a bit more interesting and applicable to life.

2 noteworthy incidents from today that I have to relate:

1. Remember a post from a while back about the black chador that we all have to wear? Today, as I was exiting the bus, my chador got stuck on a nail on the step of the bus. Without realising, I carried on walking. Thought the person behind me was stepping on my chador and was about to turn around and shout at them when I realised what had happened! I dread to think what would have happened if I had carried on walking :-(

2. Lesson 3 from our Akhlaq book was all about cheerfullness and good words etc. World looks brighter from behind a smile and all that. The next lesson was about helping people and being there for them. Before we started lesson 4, our teacher asked us how we can help people. So we mentioned all the usual methods - give money, food, teach them etc. She asked us if we were not able to help physically, what else could we do. So one of the students replied with "give them a smile". We all started cracking up - even the teacher! Between her laughing, she tried to explain that if someone's relative has died and we go to console them with a smile, they are not going to be too impressed!

Friday, April 3, 2009

Nowrooz

Nowrooz is the first day of the Iranian New Year (Nowrooz literally means 'new day'). It also marks the beginning of spring. (Although this year, spring started a lot earlier, which probably means a scortching summer!)

Many of the Nowrooz traditions are rooted from pre-Islamic (Zorastrian) times, and its slightly annoying that Iranians sometimes try and 'Islamacise' them!

Nowrooz is really like Christmas back home. People go crazy shopping for new clothes, household goods and stocking up the cupboards. The only difference is that unlike back home where you have the post-xmas sales, prices in Iran tend to go up in the new year. (e.g. onions used to be 500 Tomans a kilo, now they are over 1000 Tomans!)

Before Nowrooz, Iranians give their homes a thorough spring clean - called Khuneh Tekouni (or house shaking!)

On the first day of Nowrooz, Iranians sit around the haft seen sufreh (haft means seven, seen is a letter of the alphabet and sufreh is the table cloth, traditionally white for Nowrooz). There are 7 things all beginning with the letter seen on this table cloth:

1. Sabzi - wheat, barley or lentils to symbolise rebirth
2. Samanu - a sweer pudding made from wheat germ to symbolise affluence (I have some in my freezer if anyone wants to try it!)
3. Senjed - dried fruit to symbolise love
4. Sir - garlic to symbolise medicine
5. Seeb - apples to symbolise beauty and health
6. Somaq - sumac berries to symbolise the colour of sunrise
7. Sirkeh - vinegar to symbolise age and patience

Stores sell plastic versions of the above, but I'm told that authentic households use the real stuff!

There's also a gold fish (in a bowl) on the sufreh to symbolise the sign of Pisces which the sun is leaving. I was warned before hand that Nowrooz goldfish are like fairground fish - they don't last very long. I still HAD to buy some. I named them Layla and Majnoon after the Persian Romeo and Juliet! Majnoon sadly died after 8 days. Layla couldn't stand the grief and sadly died a few days later :-( The past week, as I've been walking home from school, I've seen dead goldfish in the alleyways being eaten by birds. The circle of life continues...

The 13th day of Nowrooz is called "Rooze Jamhooriye Islami" - the day of the Islamic Republic. Its the day on which the Iranians all voted to have an Islamic Republic.

The 14th day is called "Rooze Tabiyat" or Nature day. Apparently its back luck to stay in your house on this day! All the shops are closed and the town is deserted. Not being an Iranian myself, I just stayed at home and studied. Later in the afternoon, I had to go out on an errand on the outskirts of town. The taxi driver happened to be someone who had picked us up on a previous occasion. The whole way to my friend's house and the whole way back, the driver lectured me on how I had done something really bad by staying at home. I had to bite my tongue and stop myself from telling him that these are your fire worshiping traditions, not mine. In true 'Madagascar' style (the film, not the country), I just smiled and waved!

Interestingly though, my errand took me to Shahrake Mahdiyah, which is one of the small townships built on the edge of Qum for foreign students. The township is situated next to one of the bigger parks of the city - Bustane Allawi. To get to Shahrake Mahdiyah, you kinda have to go further, past the entrance to the park and then do a U-turn and come back. I got a glimpse of the park - it was RAMMED! It seemed as if the whole population of Qum was at Bustane Allawi! People had even brought tents!

Usually, my school gives 2 week's off for Nowrooz, but this year, we only got one week (plus the 13th and 14th!) The 8th to the 12th were really half steam though. Alot of teachers were still visiting their home cities and one day the weather was really bad, so people didn't come it. It rained so much that cars were swept away in the usually dry river! We received news of 8 people dying in Qum!

Friday, March 20, 2009

Kind Request to all readers

Please Please Please stop emailing me with your requests to follow up your admissions to the various universities in Qum. I don't mind answering questions on my experiences in Qum and in the university system here, but I have no time to chase applications.

For information on the various universities and a more serious take on life in Qum, check out http://www.studyinqum.com/Home/StudyingInQum/WhatAndWhereYouStudy